Meade ETX-60 Disassembly

What You Will Need:	1.5mm allen wrench (right angle type) flat blade screwdriver phillips screwdrivers 6-point 1/2" socket 6-point 17mm socket 3/8" drive ratchet
	The Meade ETX-60 is an excellent entry level telescope. Although it was discontinued many years ago, it is still available at bargain prices. It is not very well documented, however - even at the better sites. It just does not perform as well as larger telescopes. It is a matter of optics, however. It is a simple, yet elegantly designed production telescope and a high quality example of a 60mm starter instrument, in my opinion. Lock the azimuth axis by moving the locking lever to the left. Using a 1.5mm allen wrench, loosen the allen screw and remove the locking lever. It will likely be necessary to pry it up by the arm using a flat blade screwdriver. It is plastic, but it should not require much force to liberate it.
	The Azimuth axis locking bolt is 1/2" x 2-5/8". It also holds the azimuth axis clutch together. You can access the bitter end of this bolt through the bottom of the telescope, which is where this process will continue. A ratchet and 6-point socket work best for removal of this bolt, but don't do that just yet.
	To remove the Azimuth Clutch Cover, insert a thin tool, such as the aforementioned flat blade screwdriver and pry in the direction of the center of the telescope while lifting up the cover at its periphery. Hold it up and repeat the operation using one of the other access points. This is tricky the first time, but it gets easier with subsequent attempts.
	This is the Azimuth Clutch Assembly. Now it is time to remove the bolt from the other end using a 6-point 1/2" socket and ratchet. The secret of the clutch is friction. When reassembling the telescope, it is necessary to tighten the bolt only to the point that engages the parts below when the bolt is locked. Overtightening will result in an azimuth axis that does not move at all because you will compress the bearing and bushings too much, resulting in a permanently stalled azimuth axis. It would be difficult to ruin your scope in this way, but you might overload the motor, which will be bad news.
	This is the Azimuth Clutch Lower Bushing, otherwise known as a washer.
	This is the Azimuth Clutch Bearing Assembly.
	This is the Azimuth Clutch Upper Bushing Assembly. Note the wear on mine, which is about 6 years old, now. It will be addressed in an upcoming project, which will involve a tuneup and lubrication with teflon products available at most home centers.
	This nylon specialty bolt is not a very well documented part. What I can tell you about it is this: It is epoxied tight at the factory. It is externally threaded, which means it is a bolt, not a nut. It is normally threaded. (i.e. lefty loosey, righty tighty.) It is not necessary or advisable to shear it off. It is not 18mm; it is 17mm. Having said that, you can break its grip with a moderate amount of force applied using a 6-point 17mm socket and ratchet. 3/8" drive will give you better torque and achieve good results, if you retain downward pressure at the socket head (fulcrum) while providing a steady pressure at the end of the ratchet (lever). Longer levers will decrease the pressure needed at the fulcrum. (see Archimedes)
	This is the Azimuth Base Retaining Bolt. Note the epoxy and bits of nylon on it from its liberation. Be sure to clean this up before reassembly. I will address this in the previously mentioned project. Teflon tape will be included. The base may now be removed. A word of caution is in order here. The azimuth marker is simply a circular piece of plastic that is not retained in any way. It will easily come off of its track when you are removing and replacing the base.
	Note the retained bits of epoxy from the underside of the nylon bolt. Expect that the internal threads of the aluminum shaft are similarly soiled. It would be a good idea to clean this all up as much as possible. Although unclear at the time of this writing, it would probably not be a cost effective solution to purchase a tap for cleaning the threads. I do hope that I am not correct about this, however. Perhaps it might be borrowed from a found source. An X-Acto knife, solvent and much care might also be employed.
	You can now lift the Azimuth Base up and off of the telescope. A slight side to side motion will help to disengage the gear in the base from the worm drive in the upper assembly.
	The Azimuth Drive and Upper Assembly. The Optical Tube Assembly (OTA) is retained with 6 screws - four large and two small ones. The Altitude Drive is a little tricky to liberate. Be sure to pass the battery clip through the hole in the battery compartment and work the fork and drive out very carefully. There is a spring clip that you can remove using the same flat blade screwdriver to push it through its channel, which will help somewhat.
	The OTA has now been liberated, along with the yoke and Altitude Drive Assembly.